YOCOSCO

This week marked a major milestone in our service…the Close of Service, or COS conference. It was a week of reflection, gratitude and tears (those were mostly mine) that served to remind me just how far my cohort has come together, just how much we’ve accomplished by still being here. We had the opportunity to thank one another, to thank staff, and to think about where we’ve been and consider these next few months.

I recently found a reflection I’d written when I got to my first village. For some reason, I never posted. In the piece, I talk about how challenging a major life change can be. I describe a method Rachel and I shared for coping. How we tried to sit with the discomfort that came from being in a new culture, a new place, a new way of life.

Sometimes, life comes full circle. The emotions that I describe in this old piece, will soon be resonant again. I wanted to share it now, because it’s incredible to think of where I was, where we all were, just a short while ago. How similar some of those feelings are now.

This past week, in an effort to stop being weepy, we tried being funny. We played COS Bingo (a board of inside jokes with things that would inevitably happen at a conference–the nurse talks about sex, we run out of coffee, I pull a sweet potato out of my backpack), invented lists of superlatives for one another (I was voted “most likely to invent a condiment based fad diet,”) and cheered the profound rallying cry, “YOCOSCO!”

You Only C.O.S. Conference Once.

And yes, it’s silly, but it’s true. I’ll only get these last few months of my service right now. I’m entering another period of big change, but I know it can be a beautiful one, and I know it will absolutely end in greater strength, love, and humility.

And now, for the time warp. Back to October, 2014:

Reflecting on the past couple of weeks, I think it’s important to say, and to remember that Peace Corps is a major life change. This occurred to me, most spectacularly this morning at breakfast, while watching a turtle be cooked over the kitchen fire.

Though I’ve helped to skin a wild rabbit, gutted fish, and become remarkably adapt at killing scorpions with my fire extinguisher something about the turtle got to me today, and I had to leave the kitchen, under some silly excuse like, “my laundry is done!” so that my host family wouldn’t see me get upset.

It’s one thing to not eat meat here, it would be entirely another to show remorse or concern for an animal intended to be eaten.

And that’s hard. I come from a culture where, though my beliefs are sometimes questioned, they are not so far from the mainstream as to be unheard of. Many people would balk at a live boil of a creature. I think today reminded me that there are many things that are different, and it’s ok to say that adjusting to some of those things is hard.

Last week my cell phone was stolen, and while this isn’t a huge deal, because I don’t have much service to speak of, generally, it still feels a little funny to be without a means of communication.

My laundry excuse…laundry is done very differently here, and sometimes, while I shiver into a pair of wet underwear that I’ve inexpertly rinsed free of powdered soap, I let myself miss the spin cycle. Just for a moment. I let myself miss the spin cycle.

I went to visit my friend Rachel in the next village this morning; I rode there on the back of a pick-up truck, then biked home over a very hilly 5-mile terrain and we talked this through.

It’s ok that everything is different…in fact, it’s better than ok. The sense of displacement and difference, occasional ill footing is probably one of the greatest blessings of this experience. Sometimes I’m sitting in a crowded room and no one is speaking to me, no one is speaking a language I understand, sometimes there’s a turtle in a pot, and maybe I feel sad, grossed-out, unmoored.

But it’s just for a minute; maybe an hour. Learning how to sit with that feeling, move past it, and be ok, brings this sense of settlement, of contentment, of being ok with myself and the situation, just as it is.

Still, there is something self-forgiving and humbling in remembering that this is a major life change. Sometimes that means I need to eat more peanut butter than I might normally, watch a lot of television shows on my computer, look at pictures of Wallaby and cry for a little while.

Fortunately, in the grand scheme of things, this is a powerful change, and a beautiful one. And thankfully, for me, it’s one that will end in greater learning, hopefully a greater humility, and not in the inside of a cooking pot. May you rest in peace, little turtle.

I still get several months more of this incredible chapter of my life.

I’m not done yet.

How lucky is that?

Tire Tales

Community projects usually start when I say “yes,” to a proposal that I am poorly equipped to help lead or manage. A sociology degree really helps you understand the people you work with. It doesn’t do so much to guide you when you’re trying to figure out how to jam tires together.

My work partners at the primary school and I recently completed a tire playground. We started brainstorming in September…and finished the end of January. Here’s a photo gallery of the journey from junkyard to schoolyard.

Prior Engagements

The night I arrived at site, I dropped my belongings in my room, was treated to a tour of the yard (star fruit! Mangos! Mariapples!) and then led to the kitchen and presented with a basket of tortillas.While I chewed, awkwardly trying to get my bearings and recall enough Mopan to thank my new host mom, my new brother, Edmundo, pulled up a stool beside me.

“You are here on a very special night. It is time for a Mayan engagement.”
I choked on my tortilla as I watched a pick up truck pull up outside the house; man, woman, and teenage boy walking toward us.

“Pardon?”

He nodded seriously.
“It is time for you to see your engagement.”
After some clarification, I confirmed that it was 17-year-old Maria, not myself, who was about to be wed. That evening marked the three of four formal meetings her parents had with his parents to discuss his assets, her’s, details of their home life, jobs, quality of tortilla making, church going, and proclivity to drink. Maria would not be present at these meetings but would later talk the offer over with her parents and decide whether to accept or reject the offer. The fourth meeting will be a celebration for the two immediate families…a meet and greet with lots of caldo. The party, this coming Saturday, is when they will set a date for the wedding and then I will have to legitimately confront the fact that Maria, whom I already love, will be leaving us to start a new life somewhere else. 
Her soon to be betrothed, the young man in question, comes from a village a solid distance away…While baking tortillas the other day, I asked Maria how they’d met.

“I don’t know. I think he saw me sing on a church trip and then I just got a text one day, and it was him saying they were going to engage me.”
I looked at her, incredulity causing me to lose control of my tortilla. I accidentally flung the whole thing onto the floor.

“Why,” she asked “how do you (Americans) get engaged?”

And then I started to explain…

“Well…typically we try out a lot of people first, and then sometimes we get engaged, but a lot of people don’t, and sometimes you can be with someone for a long time and they get bored and they break it off. And we don’t usually tell our parents about someone unless we think it’s serious…” I rambled for a long time until Maria’s expression was similarly incredulous to mine. 
I thought about Snap-chat sexting and Tinder and friends with benefits. I thought about long games, hookups, “he’s just not that into you,” and Cosmopolitan magazine’s tips for summer flings versus tips for trapping men into saying they’re your boyfriend.
“Huh. Yeah, I guess our way is kinda weird.”
Here’s the thing:

I wish she could go to high school. I wish I felt like she had more of a choice. I wish she wasn’t 17 and I wish I couldn’t imagine her whole life, playing out in a movie in my mind. I wish her fiancé was better looking and didn’t wear a mesh dew rag. I wish her mother in law smiled more.

Selfishly, I wish she wasn’t moving to another village. I wish could stay right here, with me.
But I don’t think I have any soapbox to stand on when it comes to cultural ideas about relationships.
I mean, Tinder.
Just imagine explaining Tinder to a Mayan teenager.
I’ll give you a second.

Right? Right?

See what I mean?
Maybe, when it comes to the wide gulf that sometimes separates cultures, the best we can do is just listen to one another. 

Medevac Diaries

After much discussion and processing with my DC and Belize medical teams, it has been decided that the best place for me at the moment in Washington, to do some more work with PC staff. During the month or so that I will stay, I’m going to work on anxiety reduction techniques and learn how to be a better Peace Corps volunteer; a resilient volunteer, one who can bounce.

The purpose of Medevac (or Medical Evacuation) is several fold; it will allow me to get some extra help, learn how to manage anxiety imposed during the site change, and help me reconnect with the purpose of my Peace Corps service. It will allow me to find the joy of that service again. A Medevac also allowed me to snag a discounted gym membership, see the 4th of July fireworks, watch the season finale of Million Dollar Listing, and eat some green vegetables. Score.

It is hard to leave Belize, difficult to step back from service when I believe in it so strongly, when I was previously so happy. But this is about becoming better, stronger, and going back. This isn’t an end, but a new beginning.

And I won’t do it alone. In order to stay connected my cohort, BH2 (and some BH1s!), have created a list of tasks to complete around DC in the coming month.

I’ve posted this list on a new tab of the blog and will be posting to update on my progress.

I’m so grateful to my BH2 for helping me through this, for believing in me.

They remind me why I’m here.

Each challenge conquered is another step back home to them.

We belong to each other.

I carry your heart. I carry it in my heart.

DC. Get ready.

 

I’ve Had the Time of My Life

I’m spending the week doing a bit of traveling and visiting in the capital. It’s the middle of May, coming up on 11 months in country and still, everyday I’m struck by the diversity of people, places, and realities of this country.

The capital, Belmopan, is home to the Peace Corps office and government buildings. I’ve been here for a couple days, walking around remembering training and noticing acutely how different I feel. How different the city feels from 11 months ago. I know where things are, I understand the layout of the city, can get around by using Q’eqchi and Spanish, with enough ear understanding of Kriol to recognize when I’m being as spoken to or about.

I’ve been reflecting too, on the way that I’ve made a home in this country: the connections that I’ve made with other volunteers, staff, and people in Belize that have changed my perception of family and my understanding of love, irreparably.

On Sunday I spent an evening with two fellow volunteers who showed up with dinner ingredients (Broccoli? Cinnamon raisin bread? Belmopan city of wonders!) and an evening devoted to Cosmo horoscope reading and Dirty Dancing screening/sing-along.

Love.

Monday evening I had dinner at the Nepali restaurant where Rachel had charmed the proprietors with her height, blondness, and Nepali language skills last August. They greeted me with warmly, assuring me that their family was safe and well as I assured them that Rachel was. We bowed to each other, and clasped hands before I left.

Love.

The wonders of wi-fi and reliable cellular service have allowed for unfettered access to home this week. I’ve chopped onions with Kate, been treated to a rather screechy rendition of an unidentifiable song by Wallaby, and I’ve been able to pick up the phone when dad drives home from work.

Love.

The Peace Corps staff has welcomed me into the office and into their homes this week…shuttling me to the market, around the city and inviting me for lunch and games of Scrabble. So many hugs and high fives.

Love.

Before I left the village, I said goodbye of my host mom and Mrs. Makin, and both of them have me huge hugs. Physical affection is so uncommon in my adopted culture, yet the women who care for me in this country have recognized how central it is to my well being.

Love.

Volunteers, friends, staff, my adopted community, my incredible family at home, one whom I hope to make a family with in the future; in this past week I’ve had time to reflect just how unfathomably blessed I am to understand how they care for me. With phone calls, visits, Skype, mangoes, letters, poems, watermelon juice, hugs, I’ve been overwhelmed by care, by the boundless love of all of my families.

And that’s the brilliant thing about families. About love. The sacrifices we make for other people so they can understand what they mean to us. The gift of being with someone, even when there isn’t anything to say, or anyway to make it better. Maybe I’ve always known it, but failed to recognize it acutely…I love so much. I love so many people. So many human beings have graced me with their love. It’s astounding.

Distances don’t matter, language is irrelevant.

These past 11 months really have been the time of my life.

I haven’t felt this way before.

(Cheesy reference? It felt right. Patrick Swayze and Jennifer Grey are always right.) My heart is full. I’m so grateful for what has been, what is, and what will be.

And on a lighter note, this week has also taught me that I may have the makings of a fiber artist. Please see my first piece entitled “Hedgehogs (or rat-moles) in a rose garden.” Post Peace Corps career?

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If that fails, Kate-bug, I’m still willing to be your personal facialist. facial

This happened.

Snake in the chicken coop. Kenly speared the head. Chased us with it.

6:30am.

Teach me how for Cooshie (teach me, teach me how for cooshie!)

The last mobile clinic was among the most exciting yet in the village. To accompany our rousing, inspiring, and thoughtful presentation on birth control (free condoms! Free OCPs!) we received positive confirmation of 4 pregnancies among our neighbors.

Must be somethin’ in the water. But I very much hope not…

In honor of this news, and to mark the wishes of 4 other non-pregnant, shall we say, “aspiring,” pregnant women, Mrs. Makin and I initiated the Pregnant Women Support Group. (I am calling this PWSG, cause it sounds like a BAMF gang of pregnant people. Everyone else calls it “that thing.” As in “ix Molly, when are we doing that thing with the snacks?”)

It’s kinda like those group “meet-ups,” that they have in the States for strangers who connect on Internet forums, then gather together to celebrate their identities as “feisty over 50s,” tapas aficionados, or people who like fly fishing in the nude.

Except in our case, it’s a “meet up” for pregnant ladies and wannabees, who all know each other and blessedly don’t know a whole heck of a lot about the Internet.
(I’m just trying to make the argument that I’m living a totally standard 22-year-old existence. See? See? Cultural relevance!)

Tangent.

At our first meeting, we watched a long documentary about the miracle of birth. I kept my composure while explaining the meeting of sperm and egg (all the words for this in q’eqchi are the same…man seed, woman seed, make small human) but apparently made such an appalled face when we got to the delivery part that everyone burst out laughing at me.

“Don’t you want a baby?”
Nope.
Not like that.

I said it looked like the woman was trying to pass a watermelon, and everyone howled and remarked jovially that I would never find a husband.

Har har har.

For our subsequent meeting, the women expressed a desire to learn how to make banana bread and beanie hats for newborns. At first, I missed the request for this last activity, because Mrs. Makin kept asking, “when you going for show us the cooshie?” which, honestly, sounded vaguely sexual and maybe something in reference to the Discovery documentary, so I ignored her.

Until I realized that “cooshie,” means “crochet.”
I then assumed the responsibility of attempting to teach 8 women how to cooshie which resisting the temptation to gouge out my own eyeballs.

Thanks to the incredibly generous donations from Grandma’s knitting/crochet group, (thank you, thank you, thank you!) each woman has her own hook and yarn…they were ecstatic and many have picked up the cooshie very quickly. This has saved my sanity, as they are able to help each other and allow me to eat the banana bread.

Amid excessive carb consumption and yarn sorting, I continued to try to bring up important topics such as folic acid and prenatal visits.

One woman, Rosa, looked at my poster about ‘healthy pregnancy habits,” and said, “I think I want to vomit.”

She’s been vomiting a lot, so I don’t think it was about my poster, but another woman immediately chimed in and pretty soon, they were laughing and swapping suggestions and, dare I say it,
pregnantly supporting each other.

It almost made me well up a bit.

Then someone tugged on my arm and said, “Make you teach me how for cooshie!”

And the moment was over.

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Ruined for Nice Things aka Easter

I was invited to join Rachel and her family for the holiday in Placencia, a beach/tourist destination popular for its scuba diving and nightlife. This was my first trip there…many volunteers before me had previously scouted the place and determined the best venues for dinner, dancing, and (wonder of all wonders) non-instant coffee.

Jacob and I went to Easter morning mass and then I hopped on a bus for Independence, the nearest stop to catch a water taxi to the peninsula. After being roundly swindled and overpaying for my taxi, I took the 10 minute ride, traveling on clear water past little islands of greenery.

I arrived at the house around 2, where I was welcomed by volunteers Dan, Sarah, Rachel, her mother and best friend. We dyed eggs, lounged in the pool, and made dinner. Rachel’s mother was incredibly welcoming and generous…making us feel right at home. I took a hot shower that I enthusiastically ran from the bathroom, towel clad and dripping onto the kitchen floor, to praise as “soul-lifting and life affirming.”

The title of my Peace Corps memoir will be, “Ruined for Nice Things.”

In the evening, we made our way to the main “sidewalk” in Placencia. The majority of the village sits behind the waterfront, but the main “drag,” if you will, is set upon a sidewalk that extends the length of the beach and is lined by bars, restaurants, and other tourist type establishments on either side. People fill the sidewalk, moving from spot to spot, throughout the course of the night.

Easter weekend is a huge party event in Belize. We were fortunate (?) enough to be witnessing an annual cultural phenomenon–the Placencia Easter Bash.

The point seemed to be to ring in the Resurrection with as little reverence as possible. Large canvas banners decorated with scantily clad women and alcohol logos hung from the awnings.

“Holy Saturday and Easter Sunday–Wet t-shirt contest, bikini competition, and 2 for 1 shots!”

I never anticipated reading such words in conjunction, but I guess for some people, it’s just been a really long Lent.

We took part in no such debauchery, but instead focused our energies on dancing; moving between The Tipsy Tuna and the Barefoot Bar. It was a tremendous amount of fun and we even got to watch special performances by famous Belizean musicians; we’ve become well acquainted with their music in the last nine months. We were especially excited to see the artist behind the hit “XY friend,” a Belizean pop single about a woman who longs to reconnect, not with her ex-boyfriend, but with her “xy friend,” and croons, through the duration of the song, “I just wanna have his babies!”

It is actually important to emphasize that we were legitimately excited to see this performance. We knew all the words.

We made it home around 3, and enjoyed the appropriate unusual fare that accompanies such excursions (cold rice and shaved coconut, anyone?) and fell asleep. Rachel and I had to get up at 6:30. Gotta get your full 3 hours.

Rachel's friend, Franni had a polariod camera. We loved it.  #peacecorpsthuglife

Rachel’s friend, Franni, had a polariod camera. We loved it.
#peacecorpsthuglife